The completed length of yarn can then be wound into a ball, ready for use - it will probably need a rubber band around it to prevent it unwinding Working With Plastic Bag Yarn Link them all together into a long chain by passing the end of one loop through another, then back through itself and pulling tight - this knot is called a ring or cow hitch Once the pieces are all cut, discard the top and bottom parts of the bag, then unravel the cut pieces - each of which should form a continuous loop. It's a good idea to unravel and test the first cut piece for strength - if it breaks too easily, cut wider strips Then sections are cut off as shown with sharp, strong scissors - it's important to hold tight to prevent the folded layers slipping out of line with each other, as this would result in ragged or weak cut sections. Next, the bag is folded repeatedly across its width to form a narrow strip
To begin, the bag should be flattened out completely and any pleats should be tucked in as naturally as possible. Plastic bag yarn can be made from any reasonably strong bag - the tough, crinkly ones from the supermarket are ideal, but I have also had good results with the softer polythene bags from loaves of sliced bread. Working with the loom is exactly the same as for the French knitting bobbin on the previous pages.īut I'm going to use a recycled material this time - plastic bag yarn Plastic Bag Yarn The width of the finished piece is dependent upon the spacing of the pegs, not the thickness of the yarn, so a thick yarn will produce a stiff, tightly-knitted piece and a thin one will yield a light, gauzy result.
The knitted work produced by this loom consists of a stretchy, seamless tube about 25 cm across - this can be used to make bags, hats, scarves and other items. The central slot is made by drilling a 25mm diameter hole at each end and jigsawing between them to join them up. I cut it out of a piece of reclaimed hardwood with my jigsaw, drilled the peg holes at approximately 2cm intervals and glued in dowels.
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